Making Your Own DIY Colloidal Silver on a Budget
You can make your own colloidal silver at home (DIY)
There are a lot of videos and other information about how to make colloidal silver. The trouble is that almost everyone does something wrong, and this is something that has to be done right. So, we’re going to demonstrate how that’s done. We’re not going to talk about all of the different uses for silver.
We’ve done that before in our article at our site, so this is purely a manufacturing video, and we hope that you find it helpful. There are two methods of powering this process. One is using three 9 volt batteries. The other method is using a DC power supply. Officially, we have to recommend that you use the battery method. That’s for liability reasons. You see, we can’t be held liable if somebody uses a power supply and then electrocutes himself or burns his house down.
First things first, the power supply for your colloidal silver generator
That said, we use a power supply ourselves, and that’s for a couple of reasons. Firstly, buying 9 volt batteries recurrently can get expensive. More importantly, whenever you use batteries, you have a constantly reducing voltage, and each time you use those batteries, your voltage decreases. This gives you inconsistent results. Whenever you use a power supply, you will have a steady voltage all of the way through every batch, giving you very consistent results.
Soldering your colloidal silver ion generator kit
Now, before I go any further, some women may be ready to tune out, seeing the soldering iron that we have, but soldering isn’t a big deal. It’s not particularly hard. I learned how to do it, and you can too. Now, if you need to buy a soldering iron, get one that is between 20 and 30 watts. That’ll do just fine. Get one that comes with a sponge. The sponge solves a couple of things. Firstly, it helps you to clean it. When you touch a hot soldering iron to a wet sponge, the steam that’s produced will blow off the oxides, resulting in a cleaning effect.
Also, with that same action of touching the hot soldering iron to the wet sponge, you temporarily cool the soldering iron. See, if it’s too hot, and you touch solder, the solder will just turn into this water-like mess. Whereas, if it’s slightly colder than that, you can get this plasticy consistency that is much more manageable and easier to work with. You will also want some flux. You can find this kind at any standard hardware store in the section with copper pipes, plumbing, that sort of thing. You can also buy flux at an electronics store, but there is nothing special about the flux that they sell. It’s just a resin that helps the solder to work better. All right.
For this, you are going to want solid copper wire. Don’t get stranded wire, and certainly don’t get aluminum wire. Aluminum is a cumulative heavy metal. It’s not something that you want anywhere near this process. Copper isn’t something that you want to be supplementing with orally either, but at least with copper, if it somehow gets in there, your body can naturally excrete it. With aluminum, it simply can’t. Alright. So, it’s 18 to 24 gauge solid copper wire. Now, if you get thinner wire than that, you are going to have problems with safety. It’s gonna get too hot for the amount of current that is being pulled through the wire.
If you get a wire that’s thicker than that, it is kind of wasteful. You see, later on in the video, we are going to show you a process of drilling a tiny hole inside a silver bullion bar, and then threading this wire through the hole. If you get thicker wire, you are going to have to drill a much bigger hole, and that is just wasteful for your silver bar. Now, if you’ve got wire strippers, you are welcome to use them. We’re going to show you the old fashioned way just using a razor knife. You can score the insulation around the wire, whilst twisting the wire, then pulling.
I’ve got an alligator clip already in one end, and I’ll be holding the wire with the other end. If you don’t have something like this, it’s very hard to get a good connection, because you’re going to be constantly shaking the wire, and, well, you can’t get a good connection when you’re shaking, and everybody does. Alright. Well, we’re going to go ahead and connect it up.
For best results, you want to use alcohol on the wire and the alligator clip, and the solder, to remove any extra oils. Just put it on a napkin. Regular rubbing alcohol is just fine. Go ahead and get the wire, the alligator clip, and my solder. Next, you need the flux. This is what it looks like. And you want to apply flux to the wire and to the alligator clip. It’s okay to be generous. Now, we thread the exposed wire through the tiny hole in the alligator clip. Before I go on, let me just say that this foil is here for a reason. If you happen to drop some hot solder onto your work surface, the foil will act as a heat sink and cool it instantly, preventing it from damaging anything, like your table.
I’ll go ahead and touch the sponge, like we talked about earlier. Now you want to apply the heat from below the alligator clip whilst applying the solder from above, that way the solder should just melt over the copper wire when it reaches the right temperature. And when it’s covered, you’re done. Although officially we have to recommend the battery method, if you are going to use a power supply, there is a good chance you will need a power cord. You can either purchase one at say RadioShack or another electronics store — a pre-tinned power cord — or you can make your own. I’m making my own with a computer power cable.
As you can see, I have already gone ahead and cut it. Of course, you’ll want to keep the other end on. We’ll need that. Alright. Now, you want to start by removing this layer of insulation, the black, about two inches down, and you will want to be gentle. You see, we’ve got three wires inside. Each of those wires is individually insulated, and you don’t want to cut through that insulation at this juncture. So, be gentle, and it is okay to go around a couple of times gently. Again, about two inches. You might want to inspect your inner wires at this point, and make sure you didn’t nick them. If you did, you’ll need to go ahead and clip, and try again. Alright. Often, you will find some nylon inside here. You can just grab it all together, and use a regular pair of scissors, and cut that off.
Now, we need to get through the insulation on each of these wires, one at a time. Now, you’ll want to go about half way, to remove the insulation half way. So, I’m going to isolate that alone. Again, score it with a razor knife. Again, don’t be too forceful, because this is probably stranded wire, and they break really easily. There we go. Okay, and now because the wire is stranded, you will want to twist it, to get it nice and tight, and then you will insert it into your, assumably, helping hands. Now, when you attach it, try and make sure that it’s angled upwards, so that gravity will help the solder to fall back down.
Another thing to keep in mind is that when you pinch it with this alligator clip, keep it as far away from your exposed copper wire as possible, because if you were to say, clip right next to the copper wire, it would get hot, and then it could turn into a mush right where you pinched it. So, keep it far away like that. Next we’ll want to flux. Again, it’s okay to be generous. Now apply the solder from above whilst you’re applying the heat from below. Now work your way down, as it begins to silver.
Try not to go too close to the insulation, and melt it. If it’s angled like this, the solder should just kind of get pulled in there, like a wicking effect. You’ll want to repeat this process for the other two wires as well. Health Wyze! Electricity is required to make colloidal silver that is pure, because other methods require the use of chemicals that leave behind contaminants. Thus, the use of electricity is the only way to make correct colloidal silver that is safe for internal usage.
Please Don’t Add Salt While Making Colloidal Silver
Anything that is added into the solution changes it into something else. For example, the addition of salt chemically transforms colloidal silver into silver chloride, which is something that does not have the exceptional safety record of colloidal silver. While silver chloride is ideal for eye drops, it is nevertheless something that should not be used internally. The purity of the ingredients is essential for making true colloidal silver, for impurities will transform the solution into a different substance.
Even the minerals in spring water will undergo unpredictable chemical transformations, whenever they are exposed to an electrolysis process. Therefore, manufacturing with distilled water and pure silver is the only way to be certain that the solution is health wyze. Ensure that the water has been distilled using steam distillation, which should be written upon the container. Some ”distilled” water containers have, distilled through reverse osmosis on the label, and these labels are entirely dishonest.
Choosing the “right” distilled water for making silver ions and colloids
True distillation uses steam to separate the water from its minerals and contaminants, whereas reverse osmosis is simply a type of pressurized filtration that does not render pure water. The purest retail brand that we have found is the Great Value product from Walmart, and the worst (most impure) brand of distilled water that we found is Food Lion’s brand. Before beginning manufacture, the vessel wherein the colloidal silver is to be produced should be cleaned with a fresh paper towel that has been wetted with alcohol. Soaps should not be used, because they will leave unacceptable residues. Standard rubbing alcohol is acceptable, but a quality vodka is better, since it is less likely to leave behind a chemical residue.
The silver bullion bars are cleaned by soaking them in a solution of distilled vinegar that is almost saturated with salt for about 10 minutes. Then the bars are scrubbed with vodka, which is removed with distilled water, and they are finally dried. These cleaning procedures are intended to ensure that no impurities get into the solution, but they have nothing to do with hygiene. The colloidal silver is self sterilizing. Furthermore, no germs can survive the electrolysis process.
China silver wires for making colloidal solution? Steer clear.
Never use silver wire to make colloidal silver. Most of it comes from China, and as a result, most of it is contaminated with toxic metals. Regardless of how trustworthy a vendor of it seems to be, a seller is unlikely to be able to trace his wire’s true origin, for it was probably resold a dozen times before it reached him. Viewers may have noticed that many of the online manufacturing videos show colloidal silver being produced very rapidly, using silver wires that were obtained from China.
The short manufacture time indicates the presence of other, more reactive metals, and perhaps impure water too. Coins contain a variety of metals that should not be consumed, so never use silver coins for colloidal silver manufacture. High purity is vital, because most metals are extremely detrimental to the health. We recommend using silver bullion bars as the source of silver, and they should be purchased only from a reputable seller.
We must warn about the risk of not buying from a reputable seller, because the Chinese have begun flooding the market with fake bullion bars too, and these cheap lookalikes are everywhere. It is impossible for a normal person in his home to detect the fakes. Although, the Internet is full of videos with questionable methods for testing. The most reputable source for buying bullion bars is a bank, followed by other financial institutions, since they purchase their bullion bars from regulated mints.
Your bank does not obtain its precious metals and currency from Craig’s List or E-bay, in other words. You should be just as cautious in acquiring your own bullion bars, for the sake of your family’s long-term health. One other consideration to make during the buying process is that not all domestic silver bullion bars are pure. To ensure purity, buy only silver bullion that has a rating of ”999”. Do not accept any other rating. Silver of such extreme purity only contains the impurities of copper and selenium, in trace amounts. Both of which are beneficial to health in these small quantities. In fact, both are vital nutrients. Selenium is actually used by the human body to chelate harmful metals. These safety measures are essential to prevent the unintentional creation of a solution that contains unknown and untested compounds.
Keeping your silver solution pure and simple.
There is only one way to make real colloidal silver, and this process requires that the ingredients be untainted. You should review this video several times prior to manufacturing colloidal silver, and perhaps take notes. This shows how to connect the nine volt batteries. Make certain that they have exactly the same remaining power, or there could be overheating problems with the batteries, which could cause them to explode. We therefore recommend that all three batteries be purchased fresh and are only used for making colloidal silver. Nine volt batteries conveniently have connection points that enable interconnection to other nine volt batteries. This connector is the positive side, and this one is the negative. Just remember that the big connector is negative.
The connectors that are exposed on the outside are the ones that could be used to provide battery power for the upcoming electrolysis process. You may notice that positive connectors are attached to the negative ones. This sort of connection, which strings positive to negative connections, is called a series circuit, and it causes the voltages applied from all of the batteries to be added together. Since we are using three nine volt batteries, the total voltage combined that manifests itself on the outer connections is approximately 27 volts (or 3 times 9). This is how an individual could make the connections to manufacture colloidal silver at home with battery power.
The copper wire was inserted into drilled holes in the tops of the bullion bars, which was done to avoid having solder connections or alligator clips near the solution. It is difficult to solder to a silver bar, but the real reason for avoiding solder is because it will contain tin, and either lead or cadmium. If enough moisture were to reach the connection points at the tops of the bullion bars, and those connections had been soldered, then toxic metals from the solder could leach into the solution.
Therefore, it is health-wise to keep solder completely away from the interior of the vessel, and the silver bullion bars. Alligator clips should not be used on the bullion bars either, for the same reason. If enough moisture reached the alligator clips, then one might inadvertently produce colloidal something-else, which would be entirely destructive to the health. Of course, one should avoid getting copper into the solution too, but copper contamination would be considerably safer than those alternative contaminants.
Notice that the water level was kept at the mid-point of the bullion bars, to ensure that the top connection points remain dry, even if the container is bumped. Putting the water half way provides a dry safety zone. If you are going to be making multiple batches of colloidal silver, then you are going to want a real D.C. power supply. We cannot officially recommend that you use one, but we are certain that you would come to want one.
Using proper D.C. Power supply for silver generation
I shall tell you about the use of a D.C. power supply, in the event that you disregard our official recommendation to use batteries. We understand that most people will want to disregard it. The first safety rule of a power supply is to always use one that is overrated for the job that it is to perform. The ideal voltage range for making colloidal silver is from 27 to 30 volts. Thus, the power supply that is used should provide about 30 volts. The next consideration is the current. The current supplied and used is the top safety consideration, so please pay attention. The current rating of a power supply is the maximum amount of current that it can output without being damaged. The device may become hot from too much current, it could overheat, destroy itself, or even start a fire.
Therefore, we must state that the use of a power supply is entirely AT YOUR OWN RISK. We found an extremely high quality power supply being sold, which had such a high current rating, that we would never need to worry about its use in the making of colloidal solutions. We picked the Meanwell SP-240-30 Switching AC to DC Power Supply, because it provides an astounding 8 Amps. of pure D.C. power, and it did not disappoint. The output is adjustable, it has automatic cooling, and it has built-in short protection. This power supply is our top recommendation.
If you choose another power supply for the manufacture of colloidal silver, then get one that outputs 27 to 30 volts, and get the highest current rating that is affordable. Eight Amps. is plenty. You can safely disregard a power supply’s rating in watts, if you follow our advice religiously. The wattage value is just the voltage multiplied by the maximum current, which were already taken into account. We found our power supply at the Jameco web site, but we purchased it for much less at E-bay.
About power cables for to power up your kit
A standard power cable in the United States has three inner wires that are color coded. The green wire is the main ground, which connects to the ground connection of the outside transformer. The white wire is called the ”neutral wire”. It connects to the building’s ground. The black wire is typically called the hot wire. It is always to be connected last, as an old engineering rule. For our purposes, keeping the cord unplugged until the setup was complete sufficed in providing safety. Once the ends of the power cable have been soldered, as Sarah demonstrated earlier, they can be inserted into the power supply’s connection points.
The screws must be loosened, so that wires can be inserted between the screw plates. The wires should be trimmed to the right size, so that the wires do not stick out of the connection points. This symbol indicates the main ground connection (often referred to as the “chassis ground”). It is meant for the green wire, and it should be the first one connected for the sake of safety. The neutral wire is usually connected next. The white wire is the neutral, and its connection point is indicated by the letter N, as in neutral.
Finally, the hot wire (namely black) is connected to the connector marked with the letter L (as in Laura). Now the D.C. power supply will have the A.C. power that it needs to function, as soon as the power cable is plugged in, but it should not be plugged in until it is properly wired to whatever it will be powering. To begin manufacture, a positive connection needs to be made to one bullion bar, and a negative connection should be made to the other one. This means that a wire from one of the bullion bars should be connected to a power supply connector which is marked with “V+”, and the other bullion bar’s wire should go to a connection marked with “V-“.
Do all of this before plugging the power supply into the wall outlet. The power supply should not be hot until everything else in the setup is complete. I have one last note about this power supply. This knob is adjustable with a screwdriver, in case you want to limit the D.C. voltage that the power supply provides. Very few people will ever have a need to adjust this, except for the rare cases wherein a power supply arrives that was adjusted lower than its maximum voltage. In our setup, you may notice that the wires from the power supply to the wires on the bullion bars are connected by alligator clips.
You may connect the wires from the power supply directly to the bullion bars, but the alligator clips in the middle actually provide a great benefit. Periodically reversing the power connections to the bullion bars helps to preserve them. Otherwise, one of the bars will decay at an accelerated rate. We keep the bullion bars about 1 inch apart during the manufacturing process. This distance provides an engineering compromise between two competing issues. The first consideration is that the bars should be kept close enough together to aid in overcoming the massive resistance of the reasonably pure water.
What to look out for while making your personal colloidal solution
The other consideration is that the distance between the bars should be great enough to prevent their touching, if the container is bumped. The latter case of the bars causing an electrical short is a serious safety consideration. One of the first indicators that silver is combining with the water can be seen with a flashlight in a dark room. Shining light through the water at certain angles will show what appears to be smoke coming from one of the silver plates. As time progresses, one of the silver plates will turn a flat gray color, and the other plate will blacken.
When a red laser is directed through a colloidal solution, it provides an even more impressive visual result than a flashlight does. Lasers, especially red ones, enable a person to see otherwise invisible particles. In the case of colloidal silver, particles sparkle like glitter in the water, and they make the laser beam visible. The voltage on the bullion bars may be tested to ensure that everything is properly connected and that the power supply is providing the correct voltage.
For a voltage test, the red goes here, and the black probe connects here. Once the meter is powered up and ready for making measurements, you need to determine which part of the settings are for D. C. voltage testing. This is the symbol for D.C. voltages on meters. Find the closest number in the D.C. voltage section that is above what you expect. Since you expect for the reading to be about 30 volts, you might choose 100 or 200 volts, depending entirely upon the meter’s options.
To complete the test, touch the red probe to the wire that is connected to the “V+” (or positive) connection of the power supply, where it is wrapped inside of the bullion bar, and touch the black probe to the other wire in the same location. The meter should display a reading that is close to the number 30. For best results, we encourage stirring the solution every hour, and reversing the connections. This will yield better overall results, and prevent the premature destruction of the bars.
An electro-static charge may cause a bridge that is made of silver particles to form between the two bars. This has the potential to cause an electrical shorting condition that could damage the power supply, if left unchecked for long enough. A silver bridge can be destroyed by scraping it with a wooden spoon. Never insert anything metal whilst power is applied. The first batch of colloidal silver will take the longest to create. This is because the distilled water should be primed with a small amount of existing colloidal silver, to accelerate the electrolysis process by making the distilled water significantly more conductive. When producing our own colloidal silver by the gallon, we add about 10 fluid ounces of existing colloidal silver to speed the production time, without effecting the quality of the resulting product.
Seeding your initial mixture to kick start the process
Even the best distilled water will contain some trace impurities that provide enough conductivity for the manufacture of colloidal silver, if given enough time. The time can be extreme, however. Our first batch, which lacked colloidal silver to prime it, required a make time of 15 hours, and that batch was still weak. Due to the fact that silver is extremely non-reactive, a slower process indicates higher purity in both the silver and the water. Pure water and pure silver will both be very resistant to the electrolysis process. Finished colloidal silver can range from looking fairly clear to being an amber color.
Standard colloidal silver of the appropriate strength most often has a yellow tint, but it can take on a reflective appearance too, like mercury. The color may continue changing for a week after manufacture, even in storage. Darker shades generally indicate that the solution has increased particles or unusually large particles, but these are not necessary good things. The medical standard from yesteryear is 20 parts per million of silver particles that are a colloidal size.
What if your solution is a little yellowish? Is the colloidal silver still usable?
This was documented in the research of Alfred Searle from Searle Pharmaceuticals. It is generally believed by credible experts that this strength yields the classic light-yellow color. A yellow tint is what any maker of colloidal silver should be looking for. However, the signature yellow tint of colloidal silver does not always appear during manufacture. Sometimes, the colorization happens between the 16 and 24 hour points. It is believed that such silver solutions are not truly colloidal before yellowing, because the particles are not yet uniformly distributed.
In other words, light is effected differently as the particles separate evenly throughout the solution, and such perfect particle distribution is caused by a residual electrical process. Another way to verify purity is to look at the particulates that form at the bottom or float. These clumps of silver particles should always be shades of gray. Assume that there are non-silver impurities if they are other colors. Black particulates usually indicate the presence of organic matter from electrically-burned carbon compounds. Black particles almost always indicate that the distilled water was unacceptably impure. To eliminate the particulates within a finished batch of colloidal silver, it may be filtered through a standard coffee filter. It is always best, healthwise, to use only unbleached coffee filters for this and other purposes for which coffee filters are used.
All about PPM Colloidal Silver Concentrations
When chlorine by-products from bleaching come into contact with organic matter, it has a tendency to create dioxin-like compounds. Most people will get a more accurate assessment of a solution’s strength by making a visual estimate that is based upon its color. We have noticed from our testing that there is a linear relationship between the amount of time spent in manufacturing colloidal silver, and the strength of it. In other words, making colloidal silver for twice the amount of time in the same amount of water will produce a solution that is doubly concentrated.
Triple the time equals triple the strength, and so on. The same linear math applies to the amount of water, but in an inverse way. If the water is doubled, and the electrolysis process is performed for the same amount of time, then the resultant colloidal silver will be half strength. So both decreasing the water or increasing the time has the effect of producing more concentrated solutions. Making a quart of ideally strong colloidal silver (20 parts per million) would take about four hours in a quart jar, if it were primed with a small amount of existing colloidal silver.
Speeding up the colloidal silver ion generation process
If you are able to get considerably faster results, then the water is impure, the bullion is impure, or you are not using 30 volts. If so, then you are not making safe and true colloidal silver. An interesting experiment to verify the presence of silver in the solution is to freeze a small amount of it, and then examine the clumped silver in the bottom of the container after thawing. If a choice must be made between storage in a hot or cold environment, the warmer environment should always be chosen. For more information about making colloidal silver, its medical history, and its proper usage, read more about our colloidal silver dos and donts.